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Photos by Heidi Schoppenhorst 2006 Photo by Chris
Schoppenhorst, 2006
Caribou migrating
north in early April, viewed near Atigun Pass. Wolf tracks in mud
near Wiseman, along with a lone caribou track. Grizzly grazing on
ripe blueberries in August just off the road, in the Dietrich River valley
north of Wiseman.
The Dalton Highway
is the only road reaching north of the Yukon River into some of Alaska's most
remote wilderness. Those who make the journey have an opportunity to view not
only spectacular scenery, but also a variety of truly wild animals in their
natural habitat. Since there is such a huge wilderness stretching either side
of the Dalton, you may not always see animals right by the road. Here are a few
tips of where & what to look for on your trip up the Dalton if wildlife
viewing is of interest…
Photo by
Scott Schoppenhorst
Photos by Heidi Schoppenhorst Photo by Scott Schoppenhorst
(Left to Right) Two moose in pond near
Dalton, part of the Central Arctic Caribou herd near Dalton (N.Slope), Dall
sheep near Atigun Pass, Wolf north of Atigun Pass, herd of Musk Ox on the North
Slope.
What Can I See?
Since the Dalton Highway traverses
over 400 miles, across 3 major ecosystems (Boreal Forest, Arctic Mountains, and
high Arctic tundra), it is possible to see quite a variety of animals along the
road:
Moose, bears (both black &
grizzly), Dall sheep, caribou, musk oxen, wolves, red fox (3 color phases),
arctic fox, lynx, wolverine, as well as smaller game such as marmots, arctic
ground squirrels, snowshoe hares, weasels, martin, beaver, & muskrats.
Polar bears are generally not viewed from the Dalton, as they live along the
arctic coast & very seldom does one venture near the Dalton.
There is also an enormous variety of
migratory birds that travel from around the world each spring to nest in the
awesome habitat found in the boreal forest & arctic tundra wetlands.
Migratory birds start showing up in the arctic beginning in April, and many
remain for most of the summer, and can be seen until late July.
A few of the more exotic sightings -
(mostly from north of the Continental Divide) - are King & Spectacled
Eiders, Blue Throat, Oldsquaw, Yellow Billed Loon, Peregrine Falcon, and the
furthest traveler; the Arctic Tern, to name a few. Golden Eagles remain all
year, as well as (of course) ptarmigan, snowy owls, boreal owls, chick-a-dees,
gray jays, and ravens.
Photos by Heidi Schoppenhorst
(Left to Right) 2 ducks
on pond south of Coldfoot, North Slope: flock of White Fronted geese, Golden
Eagle,
Tundra Swan, flying White Fronted geese with pipeline.
Photos by
Heidi & Chris Schoppenhorst 2006
(Left to Right) Gray wolf viewed in Dietrich River valley,
caribou feed on North Slope tundra in early spring, Common Loon in Lake (off
the Dalton),
Spruce grouse near Wiseman, cow moose
in pond near Wiseman (August).
Viewing Tips: Habitat Time of Day Seasons
Different seasons, terrain, and available feed create changing habits
for wildlife along the Dalton, so there are a variety of aspects to consider
while searching for wildlife from your vehicle:
~ Changing Habitat:
The majority of wildlife sightings are from within the Brooks
Range, and north of the Continental Divide, or what's known of as the North
Slope. The reason for this is the terrain.
You are in hilly, but open forested areas as you leave Fairbanks
traveling north; moose are most commonly seen in this type of terrain, possibly
black bears, and some of the fur bearing animals such as lynx, fox, and wolves.
After you cross the Yukon River
the terrain is still forested but more open, and at one point you will cross
some high open alpine tundra (Finger Mountain area); here it is possible to see
both black & grizzly bears, caribou (this is a very small herd of caribou,
seen usually only in spring & fall on their migration through the area),
moose, and a variety of furbearers are also possible sightings if you spend
some time & keep your eyes open in this area. The terrain becomes forested
again after crossing the Arctic Circle, and most wildlife is seen only if close
to the road.
It is not until you reach
Coldfoot, which is entering the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River Valley and the
foothills of the Brooks Mountain Range, that wildlife sightings become more
common. The valley acts somewhat as a funnel for game, and sightings are more
frequent the further north you travel in the valley. Black bears are more
commonly seen in the lower part of the valley, but grizzlies, wolves, moose,
caribou (in winter), sheep (on mountains), wolves, fox, lynx, wolverine and
other furbearers, Golden Eagles as well as a variety of other birds &
raptors are all possibilities.
The most wildlife sightings
come from the North Slope - once you cross the Continental Divide there are no
more trees, only small shrubs & willows. Rolling tundra hills stretch to
the wetland of the flat coastal plain, which reaches to the Arctic Ocean. There is not much to block your view if any
animals are within sight!
Dall Sheep are common to see in Atigun Pass & in the
mountains to the north of there, grizzlies, musk oxen, wolves & caribou are
all resident on the slope, as well as moose, although not as many. All 3
species of red fox can be seen on the N. Slope, and nearer the coast, arctic
fox. Arctic ground squirrels & Marmots are quite common. This is where you
will also see the greatest variety of migratory birds, as they travel to this
desert wetland to nest from around the world.
~ Time of Day:
During
the summer the most likely times to view animals are during the very early
morning, and late evening hours. Since there is 24 hours of day/sunlight here
during most of the summer (generally from May through mid-August) it may be
hard for many to tell when it is day or night! - But not animals - Anytime
between 8PM through 8AM are generally the best hours to catch critters out
& about, and the early morning (midnight through 5AM) is generally the
coolest time of the day, when animals are likely to come out to feed &
roam. This is also the time when you will find the least amount of traffic on
the road, which also effects what you will see.
During
winter months, when it is mostly dark in the far north, you are more likely to
see animal tracks in the snow off the road or crossing. During the short
daylight hours you can sometimes view tracks from a distance, and follow them
with binoculars to spot game.
~ Seasons:
Wildlife have different habits & territories during
different seasons, and the best times of year to see animals it seems are
during the change of seasons - May / early June, and August / Sept.
Spring:
Generally early June (1st week, or even last week of May) is the
time of year most of the ungulates are calving. Cow moose are commonly viewed near the road with young calves
possibly at any point along the Dalton, or near marshy areas. Dall sheep ewes
often come down even onto the Dalton in Atigun Pass with their new lambs in the
spring. This is a good area to view sheep (primarily ewes) year round as there
are natural mineral licks in the area. Caribou cows have generally made it to
the far northern slope, near the Arctic Ocean, by early June when they have
their calves. Musk Ox also calve in the spring, and there is a small herd
(approx. 40) generally living near the Dalton north of Slope Mountain (North
Slope). Since there are many predators that hunt these young, it is also
possible to see more wolves & bears near the highway during the spring.
Grizzlies can often be seen near gravel areas digging for roots, near rivers
etc, before things really green up. Migratory waterfowl can be seen in almost
every puddle along the road as they make their journey north, and thousands of
birds can be seen in the wetlands of the Coastal Plain closer to Deadhorse in
the early spring.
Summer:
Through the summer it may be a little harder to spot game in
forested area as trees leaf out. Cow moose with calves generally frequent
marshy areas, where they can eat fresh roots, and other aquatic vegetation, and
are commonly seen from the road. Bull moose tend to head for the higher terrain
where it's cooler, and are usually not sighted often throughout the summer
months. Grizzlies feed on whatever they can find, but tend to stay in higher
terrain as well, where they often will spend hours digging up ground squirrels
to eat - glass the ridges, and you may spot one. Dall sheep live in the
mountains, and are most commonly seen near Atigun Pass, or in the mountains to
the north of there; this area has natural mineral licks, and is a good feeding
area for sheep. Black bears do not travel much past the central Brooks Range,
and are more commonly sighted near the Yukon River, and in the area south of
Coldfoot. Small game, and their predators are possible to see the length of the
Highway.
Fall:
Blueberries start to ripen
usually by mid July, and other berries follow shortly after. Bears feeding on
these berries can often be seen in the low slopes of mountains within the
Brooks Range, and other areas along the highway. Leaves begin to drop usually
the first part of September, making all animals more visible; this is also the
time of year bull moose begin their rut, and come off the mountains to search
for cows. Caribou on the North Slope travel in small bunches, working their way
south, and either east or west, starting regular migration to wintering
grounds. Late August and September may offer a chance to see several thousand
caribou migrating together, which can be very impressive. This is the best time
of year for photography in my opinion. Wolves that may have been denning in an
area while their pups were young will also now be on the move hunting together,
as well as fox, and other furbearers. Migratory birds move south for better
weather & habitat.
Winter:
Caribou can be viewed on the
North Slope year round, and moose most of the length of the Highway. You have
to watch out for moose on the roads in winter, as they sometimes prefer to travel
the road rather wade through deep snow off the road! Most common critters to
view during winter months are moose, caribou, and a variety of furbearers, such
as wolves, fox, and possible a lynx or wolverine. Large flocks of Ptarmigan
also can be sighted on the North Slope during winter months. Bears generally
den up for the winter in late September, and do not reappear until April or
May.
Good luck Wildlife watching on your trip up the Dalton Highway!
Photos by Scott, Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst
(Left to Right) Cow & calf moose in swamp north of Wiseman,
Cross fox north of Wiseman, Pipeline on North Slope, pack of wolves North Slope,
Dall ram in snow.
Last revised: January 2008
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