Surroundings

How to get here Wiseman History Surroundings Features

(left to right) Fields of fireweed in burn area N of Yukon River, Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River at turnoff from Dalton Hwy,

East view of mountains across from Wiseman, Watch out for other travelers!

How to get here:

Wiseman is located 272 miles (435 km) north of Fairbanks, which is the nearest city, and 13 miles north of Coldfoot, which is the nearest service area with food & fuel available. The turnoff to Wiseman Village is located at Milepost 188.5 on the Dalton Highway, just over the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River bridge, and it is 3 miles (4.8 km) into the village.

Driving from Fairbanks is the most common means of travel to Wiseman. To reach the Dalton Highway from Fairbanks, you will need to get on the Elliott Highway, which will link up with the Dalton 84 miles (134 km) north. The highway is paved from Fairbanks most of the way to Coldfoot (at mi 175 / km 280 Dalton), however there is a gravel stretch of road for approx. 78 miles to the south of Coldfoot. Dalton is gravel north of Coldfoot, but well maintained.

There are also commercial flying services that fly into Coldfoot from Fairbanks, Coldfoot Camp offers van service to Wiseman (check with them prior for schedule & fees), and Commercial van service from Fairbanks is available through Fairbanks based companies, as well as rental car companies. Please write or call for more information on travel services.

Photos by Scott Schoppenhorst

(Left) Wiseman Trading Co. was established in 1910. Although closed for many years, it is now open seasonally offering T-shirts and limited gifts for sale, and provides the opportunity for viewing many antiques from the early days. (Center) Wiseman Post Office, closed in 1956, was first opened in Coldfoot 1912, and later moved to Wiseman. Today mail is received once again through the contract Post Office in Coldfoot. (Right) Historic cabin near Boreal Lodge.

Wiseman History:

Wiseman was established in 1907 to accommodate the needs of the growing number of gold miners and prospectors drawn to the placer rich creeks of this Koyukuk valley. Primarily a trading community, Wiseman once supported a population of about 250 residents, and maintained a post office, general store, roadhouse, Pioneer Hall, telegraph office, and school. This is one of the few white founded communities located north of the Yukon River, and is the furthest north “gold rush” settlement in the Brooks Range still in existence today. The Koyukuk valley has also been rated 6^th in gold production for the State.

The intrigue of such a remote community, surrounded by the Brooks Range wilderness attracted early visitors as well, such as Bob Marshall in 1929, the first “tourist” to the Brooks Range. He ended up spending about 13 months here. Published accounts of his experiences in this area are the books, Arctic Village, and Alaska Wilderness. The approx. 8.5 million acre “Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve”, borders to the west of the village of Wiseman. The name is derived from an account of Bob Marshall’s journey west into the North Fork of the Koyukuk River Valley, and refers to the mountains of Boreal and Frigid Crags.

Wiseman’s population has fluctuated throughout the years, but the town has never been abandoned. Though there are still many gold miners and prospectors in the area during the summer months, the adventure of an arctic subsistence lifestyle has intrigued and held others in this remote community year-round. The land in Wiseman is privately owned. The owners have restored and continue to use the original log cabins from the early days.

Services:

Services are limited; the Wiseman Trading Co. is open seasonally, and businesses & services open year round are the Kahalabuk Memorial Chapel, Boreal Lodge, B&B, and local residents offering furs, jewelry, flies for fishing, and custom made knives. Heidi Schoppenhorst is a contract vendor for fishing & hunting licenses, and licenses can be purchased from her at the Boreal Lodge. Currently there are no restaurants or gas stations in Wiseman, visitors have the option of bringing their own food from Fairbanks (recommended - Boreal Lodge offers full cooking facilities), or Coldfoot Camp serves meals and has fuel for sale. There are no stores in Wiseman or Coldfoot, please plan ahead for any anticipated supplies needed before leaving Fairbanks.

Photos by Scott & Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to right) Sukakpak Mt., located at MP 204, viewed from the north looking south down the Dietrich valley, Snowdon Mt. peaks & fall colors viewed from approx. MP 218, View of Poss Mt. reflection, about 8 miles north of Wiseman,

Surroundings:

The Brooks Mountain Range runs east to west and stretches nearly 720 miles across northern Alaska. Wiseman is located within the heart of this rugged & beautiful Range, approximately 75 miles north of the Arctic Circle, and approximately 50 miles south of the Continental Divide, (halfway between Fairbanks & oilfields of Prudhoe Bay in the Arctic Ocean). Wilderness stretches either side of the Dalton Highway, and is home to grizzly & black bears, Dall sheep, moose, caribou, Musk Ox, wolves, and a variety of smaller furbearers. Migratory birds travel from around the world each spring to reach the arctic in search of nesting grounds. Over 180 species of migratory birds have been counted within the Brooks Range, and on the rolling arctic tundra of the North Slope & Coastal Plain.

Wiseman is surrounded by public lands; located within the BLM utility corridor, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline runs through this Koyukuk River valley across from Wiseman. To the west, Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve, the second largest Park in our system (and all wilderness) parallels the valley directly behind Wiseman. To the northeast, the furthest western border of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (largest Wildlife Refuge in the refuge system) comes very close to the Dalton Hwy Just over the Continental Divide across from Galbraith Lake.

To find out more about these public lands, please visit the links below:

Dalton Highway Corridor

Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

Photos by Scott & Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to right) Unnamed mountain just north of Wiseman, Aspen leaves turning color on the Nolan Rd (2 miles NW of Wiseman), Rainbow Gulch – about 5 miles north of Wiseman, another pretty scene from the Nolan Road (west of Wiseman).

Photos by Scott, Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River, October freezing up. Sukakpak Mt., Kahalabuk Mountain viewed from Lodge

Features – What to Expect:

Seasons are very dramatic here in the arctic!

Photos by Scott, Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Alpenglow, Wiseman Crk. Canyon overflow ice, snow peaks -35 F, Aurora, Jan 1st,07

Winter:

The quietest & most peaceful time of the year ~ also the longest season in the arctic. The ground, rivers, and creeks begin to freeze up by late September, and generally we have snow that stays by mid-October. Snowfall accumulations can range between 2 – 7 feet during a winter, but on average we have about 2 – 3 feet on the ground. Temperatures will range anywhere from 30 degrees F above zero, to –65 degrees F below zero, and weather changes quickly since we are in the mountains & close to the Continental Divide. The sun dips below the southern horizon around December 5^th, not to return until approx. Jan.8^th – during this time, there are still a few hours of daylight, but not sunlight. The advantage of all the darkness is more time to view the Aurora Borealis! - Which is spectacular from this location and can be viewed most every clear night, offering great photography opportunities. February & March are excellent months to experience winter in the arctic – long sunny days of March provide enough warmth to get out & enjoy the country, whether driving up the road to check out the scenery, cross country skiing, snow shoeing, or just hiking around. Dog sled rides & trips are offered nearby from a local Coldfoot resident.

Photos by Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Koyukuk River break up/high water near Wiseman, Spring crocus, looking toward Wiseman from across river, Bluebells by Lodge,

ewe & lamb near Atigun Pass. .

Spring:

Ice in the rivers & creeks start to melt & break up between mid-April and mid-May. Along with the appearance of all this water, the migratory birds begin to arrive by the hundreds, stopping off throughout this valley on their journey north to the wetlands of the North Slope tundra. Spring is also the time of year to view more wildlife in the Wiseman area and along the Dalton, as this valley tends to melt first close to the road & offers a good place for wild critters to have their young; moose, Dall sheep in Atigun Pass, caribou & Musk Oxen on the north slope are all calving this time of year. Grizzly & black bears, wolves & fox all tend to come near to the road as well, in search of an easy meal. Early spring, during breakup, is a poor time for hiking or attempting any type of float trip on the rivers, but does offer excellent wildlife viewing opportunity, and generally fewer visitors to the area.

Photos by Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Delphiniums near spruce gate, Dwarf Fireweed, gold panning, Tundra Rose, double rainbow over Boreal Lodging gate.

Summer:

By mid-June the ground has dried up, trees are leafing out, and the wildflowers are in full bloom. June offers 24 hours of sunlight, only dipping behind the mountain peaks at “night”, but never actually setting – this will peak on Summer Solstice, June 21^st. June generally offers clear skies & the best of summer weather, temperatures will occasionally reach into the mid 70’s & 80’s during June & July, but tend to average in the 60’s. Hiking, photography, gold panning, river floating, flight seeing, & sport fishing for grayling in the streams along the Dalton are all possible pastimes in the area. The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center in Coldfoot is also open June – August, and offers information on all of the above activities, nightly slide presentations, and an educational book / gift shop.

Photos by Chris, Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Fall color 10 miles N of Wiseman, Scenery Nolan Road, ripe cranberries w/red dwarf birch, willow in color, first snow looking south on Atigun Pass.

Fall:

Summer is already on its way out by the second week of August, and by the 3^rd week the tundra on the mountains & surrounding landscape is alive with color. Wild blueberries & cranberries in the area are ripe, and dwarf Birch, berry bushes, Cottonwoods, & Aspen present a spectacular color show after the first frost. Wildlife again becomes more visible as the leaves fall, and grizzlies are commonly viewed from the highway as they search for berries & other snacks before their long winter’s sleep. Migratory birds again travel through this valley on their long journey back south. Fall is prime time for hiking & photography – cooler weather also means less mosquitoes. Rivers do not tend to start freezing again until late September, so floating, gold panning, & fishing are all still possible activities.

Photos by Scott & Heidi Schoppenhorst

(Left to Right) Scenery on Dalton in early January, Boreal Lodge, Fall colors north of Wiseman late August, Lodge in winter.

Boreal Lodging offers a great staging location for any of the above activities. Whether you are just looking for a place to overnight on your way to the Arctic Ocean, or would like to spend a few days or a week to enjoy the wilderness & history of this area. We are off the highway, and provide comfortable accommodations with the most reasonable rates in the area. We will be happy to answer any questions you may have to help plan your trip to the arctic, and will offer honest advise & suggestions regarding any activity you may be interested in. Hope to see you soon!

CONTACT:

Phone / Fax: 907.678.4566

e-mail: boreallodge@Juno.com

Last revised: January 2008